By Christine Turley
When asking for flexion your horse needs to stay straight through the body. He should only be flexed at the poll. To get your horse to flex, use your rein to ask his head to move towards the pressure. Keep in mind that his ears should be at the same level, if they aren't then his head is tilting and it is not correct flexion. You should just be able to see his eye of the side you flexed him towards. It is important his body stays straight as well as the neck staying straight.
When teaching your horse to flex you should do it on a straight line, generally the centre or quarter line of you arena. If you don't have an arena set up some cones or jump polls as a straight line. The straight line is really for you to be able to judge if he's travelling forward in a straight line and if his body and neck are staying straight.
When you have asked your horse for the flexion, watch to see where he flexes first, and see how much he flexes if at all and judge to see if you need to use less or more rein contact for the correct flexion. Ensure that your horse is moving forward in a straight line and also make sure that as you ask for the flexion that he does not slow down. He needs to keep moving in a good rhythm. Repeat asking your horse for flexion, making sure that you reward him for doing a good job and making it difficult when he does it incorrectly. Flex your horse to each side, making sure that if he is stiffer on one side that you help make it easy for him. (If he's really struggling you can teach him how to flex from the ground). If he is doing it easily at the walk and on a straight line, ask him to flex on a curved line. Ensure you also ask him to flex to the outside. With flexing your horse to the outside on a curved line, make sure he's staying straight through the body and neck. It is much harder for the horse to flex to the outside then it is to flex to the inside rein. Keep asking him to flex and then straighten, and then flex and straighten.
It is important that you give him a break as well. You will be able to tell if he's getting irritated, or he's just mentally tired. Do it for a few laps and then leave his head alone for a little while and work on going forward. Go around the outside track and just walk or trot asking him to stay forward, ask for a few lengthened strides and then ask him to slow. This will keep his mind active and prevent him from becoming bored. When your horse is bored he is a lot harder to train. Make sure you change rein and do the same amount of work on each rein. If your horse is stiff to one side and very flexible to the other, you may have to focus a little on one side. Make sure though that you train as evenly as possible. You want your horses' muscles to develop as evenly as possible.
Flexing your horse is a vital part of starting your lateral movements. It helps when you start working on two tracks with shoulder-fore and leg yielding. It is also good for your horse body and allows his muscles to be more flexible and helps his movement.
If you have access to mirrors then try and watch yourself ride. You will be able to identify where you are going wrong and when it is going right. This will allow you to see and feel what you and your horse is doing. If you don't have access to a mirror then video is probably the next best thing. If it is possible get some one to video tape you so you can play it back when you have finished. It is important to get as many different angles as possible, video from the side, as well as from the front and back. You can even show your instructor or a friend and ask them to help you. If you don't have access to any of the above tools, then try to get some one to watch you, even if it's someone who knows nothing about horses. Explain what you are trying to do and then ask them to see if you're doing it. If you explain what you are trying to do this will help you also because it is concreting in your mind what needs to happen. You will develop your skills a little slower then if you could see and feel what is going on, but you will be able to do it.
http://www.the-horse-stables.com
http://www.equine-training-secrets.com
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Christine_Turley
Monday, 24 August 2009
5 Tips to Prevent Laminitis in Your Horse or Pony
Laminitis is a painful and distressing disease that is usually caused by mismanagement and up to 80% of cases can be prevented. Traditionally associated with small fat ponies with insufficient exercise, it can affect any horse or pony at any time of the year. Follow these tips to minimise the risk:
1. Monitor your horse's weight. Obesity and overeating are the number one cause of laminitis as well as threatening other areas of you horse's health. Use a weigh tape once a week and keep a record. An inch on your horse's waistline is a surprisingly large weight gain! Act on the results! Restrict grazing, reduce feed, increase exercise. Your horse or pony should be on the lean side by the end of the winter. This is natural. If your horse or pony is already obese at the onset of spring, you are hugely increasing the risk of laminitis.
2. Do not work on hard surfaces for prolonged periods. Mechanical trauma can trigger laminitis in any horse. Working on hard ground is not only a risk to your horse's joints and ligaments.
3. Do not let your horse graze on frosty grass. Yes - your horse or pony will be susceptible to laminitis, even in the winter months. In frosty conditions keep them in until the frost has melted.
4. Feed a good quality supplement. If your horse or pony has already had laminitis, or is overweight, feed a good quality supplement. Laminitis is overwhelmingly a digestive disorder and supplements can help to support the disgestive system and prevent laminitis. NAF 5 Star Laminaze is on offer at the moment here: Countrywide Farmers.
5. Monitor your horse for Cushing's Disease. Horses with this hormonal disease are prone to laminitis. If you suspect your horse has Cushing's get your vet to run a blood test and start early treatment. Signs of Cushings: a long, curly coat that isn't shed in the summer, excessive thirst, excessve appetite, excessive sweating.
6. Follow the rules of good feeding. Make changes to the diet gradually - this applies to all feeds: lush grass, grain, new hay. Laminitis can not only be triggered by carbohydrate overload but also by colic.
Prompt identification and treatment is vital to the future usefulness of the horse. Once a horse has had laminitis recurrence is always more likely. Once again - prevention is better than cure!
Caring for a horse or pony suffering from laminitis can be a distressing experience. Arm yourself with knowledge and information to help you recognise the early symptoms and provide the best care possible for you equine friend. For a comprehensive guide to laminitis I recommend this e-book: Laminitis and Founder Exposed
1. Monitor your horse's weight. Obesity and overeating are the number one cause of laminitis as well as threatening other areas of you horse's health. Use a weigh tape once a week and keep a record. An inch on your horse's waistline is a surprisingly large weight gain! Act on the results! Restrict grazing, reduce feed, increase exercise. Your horse or pony should be on the lean side by the end of the winter. This is natural. If your horse or pony is already obese at the onset of spring, you are hugely increasing the risk of laminitis.
2. Do not work on hard surfaces for prolonged periods. Mechanical trauma can trigger laminitis in any horse. Working on hard ground is not only a risk to your horse's joints and ligaments.
3. Do not let your horse graze on frosty grass. Yes - your horse or pony will be susceptible to laminitis, even in the winter months. In frosty conditions keep them in until the frost has melted.
4. Feed a good quality supplement. If your horse or pony has already had laminitis, or is overweight, feed a good quality supplement. Laminitis is overwhelmingly a digestive disorder and supplements can help to support the disgestive system and prevent laminitis. NAF 5 Star Laminaze is on offer at the moment here: Countrywide Farmers.
5. Monitor your horse for Cushing's Disease. Horses with this hormonal disease are prone to laminitis. If you suspect your horse has Cushing's get your vet to run a blood test and start early treatment. Signs of Cushings: a long, curly coat that isn't shed in the summer, excessive thirst, excessve appetite, excessive sweating.
6. Follow the rules of good feeding. Make changes to the diet gradually - this applies to all feeds: lush grass, grain, new hay. Laminitis can not only be triggered by carbohydrate overload but also by colic.
Prompt identification and treatment is vital to the future usefulness of the horse. Once a horse has had laminitis recurrence is always more likely. Once again - prevention is better than cure!
Caring for a horse or pony suffering from laminitis can be a distressing experience. Arm yourself with knowledge and information to help you recognise the early symptoms and provide the best care possible for you equine friend. For a comprehensive guide to laminitis I recommend this e-book: Laminitis and Founder Exposed
Helping the horse or pony suffering from laminitis or founder
Laminitis, or founder, is a disease of the digital laminae of the hoof. It is a serious condition that can affect any horse or pony and is one of the most common causes of lameness. Traditionally it is associated with overweight ponies but increasingly horses are affected too. All horse owners and carers need to be vigilant for the symptoms of this disease as early intervention is essential.
Mild cases that are identified and treated quickly can be controlled with careful management together with the correct doses of prescription medicines such as 'bute' and ACP. More acute cases can result in rotation of the pedal bone which, in extreme circumstances, can lead to the pedal bone protruding through the sole of the foot. Clearly, it is not a disease to be taken lightly. Even a mild case causes the horse or pony to experience excrutiating pain. The hoof is a fairly solid entity and if you can imagine inflammation and swelling inside an inelastic structure then perhaps you can appreciate the severity of the pain. Prevention is certainly better than the cure.
There are several causes of laminitis: carbohydrate overload, nitrogen compound overload, colic, frosty grass, lush pasture, untreated infection (such as a retained placenta), insulin resistance, concussion, poor circulation, Cushing's Disease.
Prompt identification and treatment is vital to the future usefulness of the horse. Once a horse has had laminitis recurrence is always more likely. Once again - prevention is better than cure!
If you suspect that your horse may be prone to laminitis then a herbal supplement should be added to the feed. NAF 5 Star Laminaze is a good product. Currently this is on special offer at Countrywide Farmers.
For a comprehensive guide to laminitis I recommend this e-book: Laminitis and Founder Exposed by Zoe Dunn.
Caring for a horse or pony suffering from laminitis can be a distressing experience. Arm yourself with knowledge and information to help you recognise the early symptoms and provide the best care possible for you equine friend.
Mild cases that are identified and treated quickly can be controlled with careful management together with the correct doses of prescription medicines such as 'bute' and ACP. More acute cases can result in rotation of the pedal bone which, in extreme circumstances, can lead to the pedal bone protruding through the sole of the foot. Clearly, it is not a disease to be taken lightly. Even a mild case causes the horse or pony to experience excrutiating pain. The hoof is a fairly solid entity and if you can imagine inflammation and swelling inside an inelastic structure then perhaps you can appreciate the severity of the pain. Prevention is certainly better than the cure.
There are several causes of laminitis: carbohydrate overload, nitrogen compound overload, colic, frosty grass, lush pasture, untreated infection (such as a retained placenta), insulin resistance, concussion, poor circulation, Cushing's Disease.
Prompt identification and treatment is vital to the future usefulness of the horse. Once a horse has had laminitis recurrence is always more likely. Once again - prevention is better than cure!
If you suspect that your horse may be prone to laminitis then a herbal supplement should be added to the feed. NAF 5 Star Laminaze is a good product. Currently this is on special offer at Countrywide Farmers.
For a comprehensive guide to laminitis I recommend this e-book: Laminitis and Founder Exposed by Zoe Dunn.
Caring for a horse or pony suffering from laminitis can be a distressing experience. Arm yourself with knowledge and information to help you recognise the early symptoms and provide the best care possible for you equine friend.
Dressage Competitions and Riding
Copyright 2006 Rob Daniels
At the lowest levels, dressage tests are very simple, with the emphasis on basic training. At its basic level, if you make your horse move forward, or stop, you have performed dressage movements.
The ancient Greeks were the first to practice dressage in preparation for war. Developed by the Greeks for cavalry officers, dressage evolved as a means of controlling the horse in battle. Dressage was well rooted in the military world of horsemanship, as the value of this training method was recognized by the cavalry. Later, dressage was used on the medieval battlefields of Europe and as a form of art and entertainment in the courts of Renaissance nobility. The marriage of the two most powerful families in Europe during the Baroque period secured the future of dressage. Prior to the French Revolution, dressage was expressed in ways that emphasized extreme collection and agility.
Dressage competitions evolved as early as 1806 to test the ability of cavalry officers.
Cavalry officers in the modern military also practiced dressage as recently as the 1940's. Consequently, because the Andalusian had always been a cavalry horse, he had always been a dressage horse.
Types of Dressage Horses: Although any breed is acceptable for dressage, thoroughbreds or warmbloods (any of the larger or European-descended horses) are preferable. While warmbloods have dominated the Dressage scene for several decades, riders are increasingly seeking a more rideable horse. Athletically and in temperament, the Morgan horse is also well suited to the rigors of Dressage. The Iberian's success in dressage was pretty much preordained by the history of the development of the breed. As a breed they have athleticism, superb dispositions, great heart and soundness - all attributes needed in dressage. However, Dressage is an egalitarian sport in which all breeds are given an opportunity to compete successfully.
Competition Dressage
Like figure skating's compulsory figures, dressage tests require movements and gaits to be performed in certain sequences. The object of dressage is the harmonious development of the physique and ability of the horse. Competitive dressage is designed to show the horse carrying out, on request, the natural movements that it performs without thinking while running loose. All the movements performed in dressage are natural to the horse. Both horsemanship and the basics of riding should be mastered before attempting a dressage competition. At the more advanced levels, horses and riders have usually begun to specialize in dressage competition as a separate discipline.
The standard arena is 20 m by 60 m, and is used for upper-level tests in both dressage and eventing. The small arena is 20 m by 40 m, and is used for the lower levels of dressage and three-day eventing dressage. The invisible letter X is always in the center of the dressage arena. The dressage tests are a prescribed series of movements that each horse must perform. Dressage patterns are performed one rider at a time. Judged subjectively, dressage relies on a body of dedicated judges positioned at designated points around the dressage arena. As in any dressage show, each rider receives an individual score. Each rider is given a copy of their test along with the judge's comments.
A goal of dressage is to restore this naturalness under a rider, and to create an alert, supple and responsive animal.
------------------------------
Rob Daniels has been an equestrian rider for 25 years. He has studied various disciplines additional articles are available at: Riding Stable - http://www.riding-stable.com and Horse Stall http://www.horse-stall.net .
At the lowest levels, dressage tests are very simple, with the emphasis on basic training. At its basic level, if you make your horse move forward, or stop, you have performed dressage movements.
The ancient Greeks were the first to practice dressage in preparation for war. Developed by the Greeks for cavalry officers, dressage evolved as a means of controlling the horse in battle. Dressage was well rooted in the military world of horsemanship, as the value of this training method was recognized by the cavalry. Later, dressage was used on the medieval battlefields of Europe and as a form of art and entertainment in the courts of Renaissance nobility. The marriage of the two most powerful families in Europe during the Baroque period secured the future of dressage. Prior to the French Revolution, dressage was expressed in ways that emphasized extreme collection and agility.
Dressage competitions evolved as early as 1806 to test the ability of cavalry officers.
Cavalry officers in the modern military also practiced dressage as recently as the 1940's. Consequently, because the Andalusian had always been a cavalry horse, he had always been a dressage horse.
Types of Dressage Horses: Although any breed is acceptable for dressage, thoroughbreds or warmbloods (any of the larger or European-descended horses) are preferable. While warmbloods have dominated the Dressage scene for several decades, riders are increasingly seeking a more rideable horse. Athletically and in temperament, the Morgan horse is also well suited to the rigors of Dressage. The Iberian's success in dressage was pretty much preordained by the history of the development of the breed. As a breed they have athleticism, superb dispositions, great heart and soundness - all attributes needed in dressage. However, Dressage is an egalitarian sport in which all breeds are given an opportunity to compete successfully.
Competition Dressage
Like figure skating's compulsory figures, dressage tests require movements and gaits to be performed in certain sequences. The object of dressage is the harmonious development of the physique and ability of the horse. Competitive dressage is designed to show the horse carrying out, on request, the natural movements that it performs without thinking while running loose. All the movements performed in dressage are natural to the horse. Both horsemanship and the basics of riding should be mastered before attempting a dressage competition. At the more advanced levels, horses and riders have usually begun to specialize in dressage competition as a separate discipline.
The standard arena is 20 m by 60 m, and is used for upper-level tests in both dressage and eventing. The small arena is 20 m by 40 m, and is used for the lower levels of dressage and three-day eventing dressage. The invisible letter X is always in the center of the dressage arena. The dressage tests are a prescribed series of movements that each horse must perform. Dressage patterns are performed one rider at a time. Judged subjectively, dressage relies on a body of dedicated judges positioned at designated points around the dressage arena. As in any dressage show, each rider receives an individual score. Each rider is given a copy of their test along with the judge's comments.
A goal of dressage is to restore this naturalness under a rider, and to create an alert, supple and responsive animal.
------------------------------
Rob Daniels has been an equestrian rider for 25 years. He has studied various disciplines additional articles are available at: Riding Stable - http://www.riding-stable.com and Horse Stall http://www.horse-stall.net .
Learn Basic Dressage Terminology
Learn Basic Dressage Terminology
Sports
“Get him on the bit!" “Rounder!" “Demonstrate self carriage!" “More impulsion!" You hear the commands from dressage (and event and hunter/jumper) instructors all the time. But sometimes the terms can be confusing and confused with other terms. Here, we’ll define a few basic terms, hopefully in a logical rather than alphabetical order, so you can get a better understanding of what your instructor wants you to do.
Self carriage: your goal to achieve is moving the horse in a correct and balanced frame without your horse relying on you to hold him there. In other words, he carries himself by himself. (This can be tested by giving with the reins as some horses just hold themselves in their riders hands.) Resistance: when the horse resists the rider’s aids and refuses to do as asked Suppleness: when the horse responds to the rider’s request to bend and give flexion without resistance. On the bit: the horse moves forward with energy into the rider’s hands. He accepts bit contact, even seeks contact with the rider’s hands. He is not resistant to contact. He doesn’t come above the bit with his head raised or suck back behind the bit, refusing contact. Contact: constant communication with your horse via your hands through the reins to the bit. The feel is consistent, active and alive. Think of this as keeping the same weight in your hands. Flexion/Roundness: bending with suppleness of the horse throughout his body (typically when referenced to mean the poll but also means neck, back, stifle and hock as well). Some refer to this as riding one’s horse round. Bending/bend: when the horse creates a curve through his body from ear to through the spine to the tail. Bending creates more suppleness as well as engagement of the hind legs for lateral movements. Think of this as bending to the arc of an imaginary circle that you are riding on. Your bend is correct if you turn your head and look at the imaginary center of the circle and in your peripheral vision you see both your horse’s nose (seen by one eye) and hindquarter (seen by the other eye). Engagement: think of this as tracking up well in the hind end but with added flexion in the hock and stifle. This causes the horse to “sit" more by lowering the haunches. To get proper engagement, you must ride your horse correctly on the bit, moving forward and working toward self carriage. Lateral movements: movements such as the leg yield or shoulder in that require a horse to cross his legs while moving sideways and (typically) forward. Impulsion: the forward energy. With the horse moving his hind legs well under him, “tracking up," more thrust energy goes forward. Suspension: Picture the passage in dressage…the lofty trot where the hooves seem off the ground more often than on. With greater suspension, more energy and collection take the horse’s energy upward more often than forward, though still moving forward. The horse’s stride appears shorter because there is more lift upward, more height, in the stride. Collection: if you take a balanced horse in self carriage and add engagement so he his hocks flex well under him, impulsion so he is still moving with energy forward, and suspension, so the energy is collected from going more forward, you create a frame that has a shorter stride because of increased height. The haunches are lower and the frame is shorter. This is not to be confused with going slower as many novices think. There is still the same forward energy, just compacted, and sent upward. Think piaffe, the trot in place. Through/Throughness/Traveling through: as the horse steps up well under himself with his hind legs, the energy travels up over his back, creating a round back with lifted belly, then over the top of his neck, creating a relaxed softly rounded neck, relaxed flexion at the poll, and down to the bit. It’s the route that the energy travels, and if the energy is blocked at any one place, the horse isn’t traveling through.
If that all sounds too confusing, just keep in mind the very basics first: go forward with relaxation and submission, and the rest will come.
Source: http://www.amazines.com/article_detail.cfm/378552?articleid=378552
Sports
“Get him on the bit!" “Rounder!" “Demonstrate self carriage!" “More impulsion!" You hear the commands from dressage (and event and hunter/jumper) instructors all the time. But sometimes the terms can be confusing and confused with other terms. Here, we’ll define a few basic terms, hopefully in a logical rather than alphabetical order, so you can get a better understanding of what your instructor wants you to do.
Self carriage: your goal to achieve is moving the horse in a correct and balanced frame without your horse relying on you to hold him there. In other words, he carries himself by himself. (This can be tested by giving with the reins as some horses just hold themselves in their riders hands.) Resistance: when the horse resists the rider’s aids and refuses to do as asked Suppleness: when the horse responds to the rider’s request to bend and give flexion without resistance. On the bit: the horse moves forward with energy into the rider’s hands. He accepts bit contact, even seeks contact with the rider’s hands. He is not resistant to contact. He doesn’t come above the bit with his head raised or suck back behind the bit, refusing contact. Contact: constant communication with your horse via your hands through the reins to the bit. The feel is consistent, active and alive. Think of this as keeping the same weight in your hands. Flexion/Roundness: bending with suppleness of the horse throughout his body (typically when referenced to mean the poll but also means neck, back, stifle and hock as well). Some refer to this as riding one’s horse round. Bending/bend: when the horse creates a curve through his body from ear to through the spine to the tail. Bending creates more suppleness as well as engagement of the hind legs for lateral movements. Think of this as bending to the arc of an imaginary circle that you are riding on. Your bend is correct if you turn your head and look at the imaginary center of the circle and in your peripheral vision you see both your horse’s nose (seen by one eye) and hindquarter (seen by the other eye). Engagement: think of this as tracking up well in the hind end but with added flexion in the hock and stifle. This causes the horse to “sit" more by lowering the haunches. To get proper engagement, you must ride your horse correctly on the bit, moving forward and working toward self carriage. Lateral movements: movements such as the leg yield or shoulder in that require a horse to cross his legs while moving sideways and (typically) forward. Impulsion: the forward energy. With the horse moving his hind legs well under him, “tracking up," more thrust energy goes forward. Suspension: Picture the passage in dressage…the lofty trot where the hooves seem off the ground more often than on. With greater suspension, more energy and collection take the horse’s energy upward more often than forward, though still moving forward. The horse’s stride appears shorter because there is more lift upward, more height, in the stride. Collection: if you take a balanced horse in self carriage and add engagement so he his hocks flex well under him, impulsion so he is still moving with energy forward, and suspension, so the energy is collected from going more forward, you create a frame that has a shorter stride because of increased height. The haunches are lower and the frame is shorter. This is not to be confused with going slower as many novices think. There is still the same forward energy, just compacted, and sent upward. Think piaffe, the trot in place. Through/Throughness/Traveling through: as the horse steps up well under himself with his hind legs, the energy travels up over his back, creating a round back with lifted belly, then over the top of his neck, creating a relaxed softly rounded neck, relaxed flexion at the poll, and down to the bit. It’s the route that the energy travels, and if the energy is blocked at any one place, the horse isn’t traveling through.
If that all sounds too confusing, just keep in mind the very basics first: go forward with relaxation and submission, and the rest will come.
Source: http://www.amazines.com/article_detail.cfm/378552?articleid=378552
Monday, 17 August 2009
Offer of the Week
Winter is on it's way and now's the time to start thinking about rugs again :(
Get in early with this massive 15% discount offer from Countrywide Farmers.
Get in early with this massive 15% discount offer from Countrywide Farmers.
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